1.) Honestly, I haven’t been too impressed with Viktor and Rolf the past few seasons. The dutch fashion duo’s designs of late have been overly precious and uninspired. However, their collection for next fall incorporates one of my favorite new trends: pattern columning. This is the process of creating columns of differring colors and patterns that break up the body horizontally without the normal convention of stripes. This style is obviously apparent in the look on the right, but is also echoed in the look on the left. Notice how the sleeves, vest and colar create a new visual shape, which is then repeated in the shadow stripe on the slacks. This look elongates while shifting the focus away from the center, creating a really large visual canvas.
2.) Junya Watanabe tones it down a notch for his fall 2009 collection, styling a look that makes me think “dandy hunter dressed up for a big date with a cute man from the big city”. I always love styles that find a way to merge the casual with the sophisticated. If I were Watanabe, I might have forced my models to grow mustaches or beards for the runway, but besides that I think these looks are flawless. I also am really enjoying the contrasting shoe choices which once again recalls my current obsession with color blocking, creating different visual focuses which are not necessarily cohesive, but still function well together.
3.) I love love love Marni’s Fall 2009 collection. At first it seems unassuming but upon further inspection you notice the details. These include the daring hemline banding on the pants, the unexpected equestrian inspired footwear, and the forward thinking use of “tech” fabrics for the top layers when a less adventurous designer might have stayed safe using a wool knit. This makes me think “Kurt Cobain, off the drugs and wearing a wetsuit”.
4.) I know I talked shit about Gucci in my last post, but when it comes to suiting (specifically), almost no one gets it done as well. The grey suit on the left is my favorite. I really like how toned down (but well tailored) the suits are, and how loud and patterned the shirt and ties are. These suits might be my official “eat shit for them” fashions of the season!