Menswear Fall 2009 (part 2): The Good…

…and now, The Good!


1.) Honestly, I haven’t been too impressed with Viktor and Rolf the past few seasons. The dutch fashion duo’s designs of late have been overly precious and  uninspired. However, their collection for next fall incorporates one of my favorite new trends: pattern columning. This is the process of creating columns of differring  colors and patterns that break up the body horizontally without the normal convention of stripes. This style is obviously apparent in the look on the right, but is also echoed in the look on the left. Notice how the sleeves, vest and colar create a new visual shape, which is then repeated in the shadow stripe on the slacks. This look elongates while shifting the focus away from the center, creating a really large visual canvas.



 2.) Junya Watanabe tones it down a notch for his fall 2009 collection, styling a look that makes me think “dandy hunter dressed up for a big date with a cute man from the big city”. I always love styles that find a way to merge the casual with the sophisticated. If I were Watanabe, I might have forced my models to grow mustaches or beards for the runway, but besides that I think these looks are flawless. I also am really enjoying the contrasting shoe choices which once again recalls my current obsession with color blocking, creating different visual focuses which are not necessarily cohesive,  but still function well together.


3.) I love love love Marni’s Fall 2009 collection. At first it seems unassuming but upon further inspection you notice the details. These include the daring hemline banding on the pants, the unexpected equestrian inspired footwear, and the forward thinking use of “tech” fabrics for the top layers when a less adventurous designer might have stayed safe using a wool knit. This makes me think “Kurt Cobain, off the drugs and wearing a wetsuit”.


4.) I know I talked shit about Gucci in my last post, but when it comes to suiting (specifically), almost no one gets it done as well. The grey suit on the left is my favorite. I really like how toned down (but well tailored) the suits are, and how loud and patterned the shirt and ties are. These suits might be my official “eat shit for them” fashions of the season!


2 Responses to “Menswear Fall 2009 (part 2): The Good…”

  1. February 2, 2009 at 12:57 am

    also in love with watanabe and marni!

  2. 2 The Bearded Traveler
    February 4, 2009 at 12:36 am

    Okay, I… dunno if it seems like I’m ALWAYS disagreeing with you, haha.
    Hey, I agree SOME of the time, and MOST of that last post! Right?

    Okay, so… the Marni. Simple. I don’t have much of a prob with. The pants are
    a bit higher than I’d like- I think you like the hiiigh cuffs, yes?- but to be
    fair to me, I don’t mind wearing things that are a bit short if they are cool
    clothes, ex. my brown Western shirt sleeves.

    The Gucci- I like them. I think the tie n shirts clash a LIL more than I’d like.
    I thought I had pretty willld, wide-open taste about clashing, BUT I guess I’m
    discovering I’m NOT that wild! But would I wear those? Sure… I really don’t
    like the runway-suit thing of not buttoning all the buttons though. I guess it’s
    a common thing? It looks like “Oh, shit, I’m late! [runs out the door unbuttoned]”
    to me, but I GUESSSS it’s common in The Fashion World.

    The Watanabe- Hmm. I’ve never thought about it before, but I guess I’m not big on
    brightish light colors in the shoes with the rest of the clothes DARK. And if someone
    has the top button buttoned of a shirt with no tie, I just… that bugs me. That’s ME.
    I guess that counters my suit thing. I like shirt buttons off, suit buttons ON. Getting
    past those PARTICULARS, though, I really don’t mind these at all.

    I don’t like the top left one. I dunno. It’s funny, the sleeves remind me of Mark E Smith’s
    outfit on this album cover:
    I don’t mind the right one, but once again I’m reminded of something a bit odd- 1910s
    baseball uniforms. If you were to look at pics of ballplayers circa 1900-1920, you see
    a few reminiscent of that.

    Keep in mind, though- I’m pretty bummy in the clothes. I DO wear those light grey And Ones,
    going against my above-writings, but that’s because they were cheap and they fit!
    (I wear size 12s)

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